SquareMeal Review of
A vibrant menu? Check. Queues for dinner? Check. Kitsch Bombay nostalgia? Check. It’s business as usual at Dishoom’s fourth branch, but that’s good. Styling in this sprawling ground-floor bar-restaurant is inspired by the 1960s: Brimful of Asha in four dimensions. Professional staff galvanise the buzzy atmosphere. Mild spicing characterises a menu of small plates, grills and biryanis, the Carnaby sali boti special combining lamb with velvety meat gravy, showered with crisped potato shavings. Comfort food is a highlight: whether deeply creamy black dhal or a ‘Frankie’ naan parcel loaded with paneer and mint chutney. The spiced cocktail list includes bottle-aged options; wines focus on Europe; and the house chai (served to the hour-long queue outside) is delicious. With evening reservations for six diners or more only, Dishoom is ideal for parties: it certainly has the requisite vibes, flavours and drinks.