Cut at 45 Park Lane 22

45 Park Lane , London, W1K 1PN

  • cut at 45 park lane_2011
  • CUT at 45 Park Lane

SquareMeal Review of Cut at 45 Park Lane

Cut stands out from the steakhouse crowd thanks to its Park Lane pricing, glammed-up globe-trotting clientele and the clout of A-list chef Wolfgang Puck. Provided you’re financially prepared, you’ll find a surprisingly unpretentious vibe in the very attractive (if hotel-ish) dining room, where soaring drapes and wood panelling head northwards to a ceiling hung with starburst lights. Service could be slicker, but the kitchen pulls out all the stops to justify the prices. Cuts of USDA Prime, South Devon Angus, New York sirloin and dizzyingly expensive Wagyu are presented in all their raw marbled glory before being returned to the table charred and crusted from the grill. Sides include wickedly buttery potato purée and glistening nuggets of bone marrow, while top-notch starters range from maple-glazed pork belly to a very pretty crab and lobster cocktail with spicy tomato horseradish. Desserts, should you get that far, are all-American sweet treats. Upstairs, Bar 45 dispenses classy concoctions in large glasses.

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7.9

Food & Drink: 8.1

Service: 8.3

Atmosphere: 7.3

Value: 5.8

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 2.0

Value: 2.0

Gourmand Gunno platinum reviewer 15 December 2014

There is always something profoundly depressing about restaurants in hotels. Even if they have their own separate entrances, the atmosphere often seems to be one of transience and impersonality. Cut at 45 Park Lane (which one is forced to enter through the eponymous hotel) is little different. Admittedly they have a celebrity chef (Wolfgang Puck) and the largest selection of American wines outside the US, but there is simply no getting away from the fact that this is a place where one goes more for business than for pleasure. It was hard either to fault the food or the wine but the atmosphere was singularly lacking, the nearby conversations dominated by chatter of hedge funds and private equity deals and the prices set to cater for those recently in receipt of Mayfair-sized bonuses. The room itself offers sedate views of nearby Hyde Park, and despite its well-spaced tables, the place still feels somewhat claustrophobic, no doubt a function of the narrow space in which this dining area is squeezed within the overall dimensions of the hotel. Moreover, notwithstanding the size of the tables, the noise level became somewhat unpleasant, particularly as the place filled up. On the positive side, our dishes did please, as did the accompanying wines. My tuna tartare starter was among the best I had experienced, soft and juicy fish enhanced by delicate lime and chilli flavouring, matched perfectly with a glass of Prager’s Austrian Gruner Veltliner. For the mains, while my two dining comrades both opted for steak (the main event here), I chose a seafood pasta, which was also excellent, fairly light and with balanced flavours. My meat-eating comrades praised the attention to detail applied to their sirloin and fillet mignon respectively, both cooked exactly as requested. Even for such a high quality experience, the prices are eye-watering to say the least. Relative value is offered in the form of a two-course set menu for £40 (there are much cheaper set menus at better places, I would note…), but choosing a-la-carte as we did, and starters come in at £15-20, mains at £25-30 and one struggles to find many wines at below £100 a bottle. Fortunately someone else was paying, bit even if this were the case again in the future, I would not feel any major compulsion to return.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 3.0

Toby N. platinum reviewer 20 December 2013

After the debacle of Kazan (see separate review) I decided to compensate for this by holding my own ‘Christmas’ lunch for me and a longstanding friend at Cut. I’d not been before, but she loves it there, and rates it one of her two favourites in London (the other being Pollen Street Social). It’s a lovely dining room – I know some people have likened it to a corridor, and yes it’s a funny, long and narrow shape, but it’s oh so sexy as well. Everything sparkles, but somehow it just stays on the right side of bling – I particularly loved the high ceilings and the sliver cloud lights. If it were a bit of clothing it’d definitely be a Louboutin stiletto. On a Thursday lunchtime, in the week before Christmas, it was busy with a mixed group of people, from suits, to ladies that lunch, to hotel guests. There isn't music, but it’s also not somewhere that you feel the need to whisper, but neither is it overwhelmingly loud like, say, Berners Tavern. Service is excellent; everyone is polite, friendly and efficient. Its ultimately less polished than, say, Petrus, but at the same time you’d struggle to find fault with it. Food is not adventurous – think steaks, salads, sandwiches etc – but it’s done really well and delivered to an exceptional standard. After a fantastic selection of warm bread (Olive, sour dough, foccacia), with spreadable, salty butter, we both went for the set, Cut on the hour, menu. We both went for Angus Filet Mignon (no starters); it was a perfect, thick (if smallish), steak, done nicely pink and as good as any I’ve eaten; the only downside being what you get is a steak and everything else (sauce, side dishes etc) is extra and at a minimum of £7 a side, costs do mount up quickly. Dessert was cherry Baked Alaska with pistachio base and sauce – slightly chewy, rather than crisp, meringue, but overall excellent. We managed to accompany lunch with 2 glasses each of LP champagne and a rather nice glass of Malbec each with our steaks. All really good, but again at a cost – we managed £100 worth of drinks, which when you’ve added service on top does make for a costly option. And that’s the biggest issue with Cut, the sheer cost. Two set menus, water, 3 side dishes, sauce, drinks and service came to £250. And if you’d got into the main menu and a bottle of wine would have probably been closer to £400 – which is simply too much given Petrus, Pollen Street, Eric Chavot etc would all come in far cheaper than that. But would I go again? Absolutely, though I’d prefer if someone else paid the bill.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 3.0

Natalia P. gold reviewer 14 August 2013

Good quality steaks and very very good service. But it comes at a price.

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 3.0

OrientalGourmand bronze reviewer 12 May 2013

We were fortunate to sit right in front of a live singer and it added to the great experience at Cut. Service was excellent, food was great and it was really enjoyable. I am sure we will visit it again soon!

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 5.0

Value: 3.0

GH platinum reviewer 06 April 2013

Very pretty restaurant, attentive service, buzzy atmosphere, good meat cuts, very good wine list. Can have a drink upstairs at the bar before dinner.

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 4.0

Natalia P. gold reviewer 07 February 2013

Amazing! One of the best steak places in London! The quality of steaks is amazing and a lot of choice. They start you off with different types of bread, freshly baked of course! and with some sort of cheese scones, setting the tone for the whole evening. Portion size is good, so make sure you are really really hungry when you go. Staff – attentive, know about the menu and the difference between the cuts. The only downside, they do leave you to it once the mains come, so you may need to prompt for them to refill your glass! But that doesnt spoil the evening.

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 1.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 1.0

Nigel C. 01 November 2012

The Cut tries very hard but in doing so gets it very wrong. For a start let’s look at the booking system. The reason why it is difficult to get a table is because it is a quite small restaurant. I booked with 2 weeks’ notice. Three days ahead of the booking I was left a voicemail requesting that I call back to confirm my booking and that I was allocated the table for 2 hours. The table time-allocation was never mentioned when I made the booking. Before I even get the chance to taste the food I am asked to leave! As for calling back at the price charged can't the restaurant make the effort to chase me a little so that my custom feels valued? If this was after the third attempt of trying to reach me I would understand… The restaurant's reception is in the hotel lobby there are no doors to isolate the restaurant from the hotel lobby and I breathed a sigh of relief that I was not allocated a table at the front of the restaurant. The table are nicely presented but the foot of the table which is a central column with a large base is such that one cannot get one's feet under the table properly. Hence it is quite difficult to get comfortable. We ordered from Waiter 1 a porterhouse with chimichurri and house steak sauce, fried, spinach and wild mushrooms. Waiter 2 arrived with our food. The meat was good but nothing spectacular that one cannot find say at Hawksmoor or at The Palms, the fries were not only boring but served in a serviette!? At £7 for a portion of fries can they not place the fries in a more suitable dish? Trying to get the fries on our plates without making a mess was a test of agility. The chimichurri sauce turned up as béarnaise because they had made a mistake on the order. I then asked Waiter 3 to bring me the correct sauce. The chimichurri sauce lacked the kick associated with the sauce. So I asked Waiter 4 for the peppercorn sauce and he replied “ah yes the Bordelaise”… so I had to spend a moment explaining that a Bordelaise is not a peppercorn sauce. Waiter 2 brought me glass of wine, the serving (150ml) did not look like the right size. When I asked Waiter 1 for another glass I was given close to double the amount… and trust me it is not for my good looks! All in all we were served in total by 4 waiting staff I do not mind but I like a little continuity especially when the service is patchy, inconsistent and unknowledgeable. The plates and cutlery was another challenge. The plates are wide but the tables not generous to accommodate side dishes, glasses, sauces etc… hence when one wants to let go of the cutlery the only place is the plate however these keep on sliding down into the plate and you have to pick these out of the plate covered in sauces and clean them up. It would appear that the plates and cutlery was selected because they looked good but not for their functionality. I then asked for the bill. Being a restaurant in a hotel you get slip to sign except no pen was offered nor was I asked whether I had one. When I paying close to £200 for a meal that does not include a starter nor dessert I expect at least impeccable service let alone outstanding food. I expect a dining experience! I got one but one I would not want to repeat.

Food & Drink: 5.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 4.0

Value: 3.0

Monika T. 29 October 2012

I am a big fan of Wolfgang Puck restaurants Las Vegas and LA. Have to say was very surprise and happy when I find his restaurant in London where i live :) fantastic steaks and service :) Monika

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 4.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 4.0

Thomas D. 01 July 2012

Finding a good steak in London (or the UK) is pretty hard, so I was very excited when the this restaurant opened. The meat is very good! Probably one of the best I have tried in London. The service was discrete but efficient and we had a fantastic lunch. My only negative comment was ambiance of the restaurant, if felt like we were eating in a converted corridor not a dinning room. That said would highly recommend it, but drink lots to prepare for a high priced bill!

Food & Drink: 3.0

Service: 5.0

Atmosphere: 1.0

Value: 1.0

Leeann T. bronze reviewer 26 June 2012

This place is surreal . Its like eating steaks in Aladdin's cave. The service was lovely but you know you are in trouble when the first wine in the wine list goes for £300!!! We felt that the £50 Chilian we ordered was slumming it when compared to what was on offer but I do have a mortgage to service. The cooking is first rate from the cheeses sticks and tiny little hamburgers to the bread. I had a breadroll which has to be the best bread roll I had ever tasted-it was the king of breadrolls. Given that all the aforementioned was offered before I had a chance to order , I decided to start light with a salad. It was stunning with soft lettuce, avocado and tasty ripe tomatoes and blue cheese. I would come back just to have the salad! My guest had scallops which he enjoyed-we both ordered the US filet which at £32 was reasonable compared to the pricier cuts -well seasoned and tasty if a little over cooked for medium rare . We were so stuffed that we skipped dessert but given yummy cookies with the coffee. The meal was really really lovely but come prepared for sticker shock as it does not come cheaply: £260 for 2 courses . I almost wish they would move to less glitzy surroundings so that i could eat there more often. The service was lovely and friendly although we did have to stop the waitress from filling our glasses with the next door tables wine.

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