SquareMeal Review of
Craig Millar @ 16 West End
Briny-fresh, locally sourced seafood is the big selling point at Craig Millar’s restaurant, although it’s almost outdone by the stupendous views across the Firth of Forth to Bass Rock. With the local harbour just a stone’s throw away, it’s not surprising that top-drawer fish is guaranteed – and Craig makes the most of the catch for a repertoire of emphatically flavoured contemporary dishes. A starter of ‘sea-reared’ trout (cooked at 44 degrees) with miso caramel, oyster, dashi and parsley sauce ticks all the on-trend boxes, but there are also more conventional ideas on show – think a smoked haddock and cheese ‘tart’ or cod with chorizo, butterbeans, goats’ cheese and spinach. Those who prefer meat might be offered Parmesan-crusted venison loin with salsify, kale, beetroot, crosnes and pickled turnip, while fancy desserts are in the mould of apple pannacotta with bramble sorbet, granola, apple sponge and salted caramel. Staff know the ropes, the home-baked bread is a must, and wine buffs are also in for a treat – thanks to a smartly assembled list.
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