Heron

It’s tasting menu territory in Heron, one of the restaurants that no doubt contributed to Leith’s rather recent reputation glow-up. Once looked down upon as a less desirable Edinburgh suburb, this community out towards the sea now draws jaded city dwellers with the appeal of more affordable housing stock, waterside walks and, well, good food.

Here to provide some of those goods is Sam Yorke, who heads up a kitchen team that works behind the scenes on an ever-rotating menu. Out front the interiors are pleasant, if not ground-breaking, with light wooden wishbone chairs and the requisite pop of green from large potted plants contributing to the well-loved Scandi aesthetic. It’s quiet on our visit, but we’ve known others to have to book well in advance. The inevitable loss of a buzz is broken by the background music and a cheery waitress getting to grips with the intricacies of an all-new menu. She’s mercilessly required to relay every detail thanks to a short and sharp billing that leaves the exact plating as a surprise until each dish is presented to you.

A ramble around land, sea and sky; venison, grouse, scallop and langoustine concoctions leave guests with a robust line-up of seasonal dishes. However, while the flavours hit you square in the face, there’s a lightness of touch that ensures it doesn’t become all too much. Venison tartare cut with sweet elderflower and tart mustard; partridge lifted with little Brussels sprout leaves and rich lardo contrasted with sweet, chopped langoustine in a dainty tartlet, for example.

Don’t get us wrong, the whole collection hardly plays out as a palette cleanser. It’s rich, generously buttered food with gutsy flavours that reaches out to your inner need to be cossetted via what you consume. And there’s a further doubling down on ingredients that plays out too, to compound flavours, exemplified in a crispy duck fat-soaked crumpet crispy served as a side to a daintily dressed duck terrine.

While the accomplished cookery on show here undoubtedly shines a light on how Scottish food can be interpreted through a modern lens, the appeal of good food and a warm welcome is timeless.

Heron is a modern Scottish restaurant in Leith, Edinburgh, run by chef patron Sam Yorke. The restaurant won a Michelin star in 2023, making Yorke the youngest chef in Scottish history to win a Michelin star, at just 25 years old.

You’ll find the restaurant by the Water of Leith, not far from the Albert Dock Basin. The smart forest green front carries through to the restaurant, where a dark green ceiling harmonises with potted palms and hanging pendant lights. As well as ample tables, there’s also a handful of cosy armchairs by the bar, where guests can relax for a pre- or post-dinner drink.

Yorke’s menus are designed primarily around great Scottish ingredients, though not exclusively. At the time of writing you’ll find Scottish venison, hand-dived Orkney scallops, turbot, veal sweetbreads and more across an 11 course tasting menu. The style is modern, paired back and unpretentious, grouping flavours in thoughtful and effective combinations. Although the cooking is elevated, the restaurant itself is very relaxed.

Dishes on the menu currently include asparagus with wild garlic and almond, turbot with shio koji, leek and dill, and forced rhubarb financier with fig leaf. Heron’s menus are very seasonal so you can expect to see dishes change regularly.

The restaurant also offers vegan, vegetarian and pescatarian tasting menus, making it an excellent choice if you’re planning a meal around certain dietary requirements.

All the tasting menus are available with a choice of two wine pairings, or guests can order separately from the wine list, with lots of wines available by the glass. Heron also offers signature no-alcohol options, as well as a handful of classic cocktails.