SquareMeal Review of
Gritty Bethnal Green is the destination as Chris Moore, former head barman at The Savoy’s gilded Beaufort Bar, flies solo. The former Albion pub has been transformed to create a low-key low-lit space (exposed brick walls, art nouveau globe-cluster chandeliers) that’s bang on the East End-now money. A bar counter inlaid with countless old centime coins, and a drinks list highlighting Calvados, Armagnac, ‘cidre’ and ‘fortified kirs’, indicate Moore’s Parisian inspiration. Similarly edgy but decidedly uptown, Coupette’s gimmick-free cocktails are a tour de force. Modernities such as Spyglass (Bacardi eight year-old rum, Cognac, port, clay and pastis bitters) measure up well against the classics. Try also Soyer au Champagne (a belle époque brandy and cherry-wine fizz topped with ice cream), and twists such as a compelling Calvados-laced take on a Vieux Carré. We’ll be straight back here to rip through the rest of Moore’s menu as soon as his kitchen is open for the likes of croque monsieur, truffled creamed leeks and confit salmon, or merguez sausage with Basque piperade.