This Blenheim Street site has been home to several high-end Italians over the years; the latest to try its luck is Camillo Benso which, having conquered Milan since opening in 2015, aims to do the same in Mayfair. It certainly looks the part, with glossy tabletops imprinted with geometric patterns, luxurious-looking emerald green banquettes and gold wall features compensating for the awkward proportions of the U-shaped room; ask for a table near the window if you don’t want to dine in the dark at the back of the restaurant.
A fine rendition of veal milanese (more like a juicy, breadcrumbed chop than the usual sliver of fried meat) was far and away the best thing we ate. Elsewhere, vitello tonnato was notable for its punchy tuna mayo while, from a duo of pasta dishes, a satisfying spaghetti alla Nerano – involving courgette and basil bound by provolone cheese – had the edge over cacio e pepe that could have been tangier. Our only dud dish was a dry torta caprese for pudding.
This is classic Italian food, mostly well made, nicely presented and served by friendly and smart staff. Prices, while not a bargain in anyone’s book, aren’t outrageous for Mayfair, not least on a short menu of pizzas for under £15 which should guarantee a loyal lunch trade.
The bar, meanwhile, could become an in-the-know evening destination for aperitivi and cicchetti – it’s situated moments from Oxford Street, but it feels like Mayfair and is the sort of place that would be perfect for a discreet chat with a recruitment consultant.