SquareMeal Review of
Chef George Livesey’s culinary CV reads like a Who’s Who of UK Michelin stardom, and all that experience is paying off handsomely at Bulrush – the Bristol gaff he runs with wine-savvy partner Katherine Craughwell. Located on the border of Cotham and Kingsdown, this is a genuine neighbourhood restaurant spread over two floors with lots of homely nooks and nothing too flash when it comes to the decor. Seasonal favours and foraged pickings figure prominently on the menu, which is full of perky, imaginative ideas executed with real élan: a savoury dill junket with English peas and turnip ice sounds freshly minted, while Aylesbury duck breast is enlivened with baby beetroot, smoked beetroot purée and arrowgrass oil. Fish from the West Country boats might range from blowtorched sole with gazpacho, almond and pickled grapes to hake with crab, pickled peach, radish and bisque, while desserts could feature BBQ apricot with apricot-stone ice cream and rosemary meringue. Katherine’s drinks list extends to local beers, cider, cocktails and sparkling saké as well as plenty of biodynamic wines. One to watch, we reckon.