Once the exciting young upstart, Bulrush is now a seasoned fixture of Bristol’s dining scene - the last remaining Michelin-starred restaurant from a group that once included Casamia, Paco Tapas, and Wilks. Bristol has reinvented itself over the past decade, but what of Bulrush?
Tucked away in Kingsdown - a relatively sleepy part of town - we make the uphill trek from the centre to find Bulrush’s royal blue door invitingly ajar. A decade ago, the interior was all pristine whitewash and clean wood, reminiscent of St John. Today, it has mellowed into something more lived-in: scuffed paintwork and dents on chairs speak of ten years of good times and great meals. It’s an unusual building, long and narrow, drawing the eye to the semi-open kitchen at the back of the restaurant.
Bulrush has built its reputation on thoughtful, modern cooking centred on seasonal British ingredients, often presented in inventive and unexpected ways. It’s a delicate balancing act to maintain for a decade, but Bulrush’s longevity is testament to its success. The tasting menu opens with a trio of intriguing small bites: a tuna croustade, a duck liver macaron, and pig’s trotter and langoustine atop a cube of glazed brioche. These opening snacks are where Bulrush shines. The croustade is exceptional; the duck liver macaron cleverly offset by its sweet meringue shell; and the rich combination of trotter, langoustine and brioche is undeniably indulgent.
We found Bulrush most compelling when dishes were kept relatively simple. Some more unconventional ideas, however, didn’t quite hit the mark. The main lamb dish was a standout: beautifully pink meat, a glossy reduction, and a spicy, likely house-made merguez sausage. But a dollop of yuzu kosho on the side was distractingly bitter and felt jarringly out of place. Likewise, a fat Orkney scallop felt overloaded and drowned out by salsify, sea herbs, magnolia and more.
The service is excellent - warm, prompt, and deeply knowledgeable. While the wine list is on the smaller side, there’s a very well-judged drinks pairing available that enhances the experience.
Still one of Bristol’s better fine dining destinations, Bulrush continues to deliver with bold, creative cooking. Just be prepared: it’s best suited to the city’s more adventurous palates.