SquareMeal Review of
Beachside Grill at Saunton Sands Hotel
Part of the four-star Saunton Sands Hotel, this smart, two-storey café stands right on the beach, offering panoramic views from its wall-to-wall windows. It’s a beautifully designed place with vaulted ceilings, wooden floors and a large wraparound terrace for hot days; though despite the café’s looks and pedigree, the vibe is admirably chilled. The menu, too, is solid but unfussy: there’s something for every palate, from burnt brisket ends (smoked low and slow over hickory wood) with black-garlic mayo, or baked Camembert topped with honey, figs and croutons, to burgers, steaks and sandwiches with full-on toppings. The drinks list includes the odd pour local to Devon, such as citrusy Dart Valley Reserve from winemaker Sharpham, or the classic Doom Bar from Cornish brewery Sharp’s, but when the sun goes down and the lights are dimmed, the cocktail jugs come out and summer staple Pimm’s rules the night.