SquareMeal Review of
Barbecoa St Paul's
Now that those early design flaws have been ironed out, Jamie Oliver's cathedral to fire and food can strut its stuff as a perfectly practical – if noisy – canteen with central banquettes offering glorious views of St Paul's: everybody wants one, but there's no harm in asking the energetic, enthusiastic staff. The kitchen is a geek's toolbox of Texas pit smokers, tandoors, fire pits, robata grills and wood-fired ovens, and its smoky aromas ensure that Barbecoa smells as appetising as any eatery in the City. The whiff of testosterone is unmistakable too, from the Desperate Dan ribs, T-bones and beef chops to the wine list's expense-account machismo, while sensitive souls can graze on beer-can chicken or wood-roast halibut. Off nights and disappointments are not unknown, but the scales still tip in Barbecoa's favour – especially as there's a "real buzz about the place".