SquareMeal Review of
The Arts Theatre Club
Themed ‘speakeasies’ are a dime a dozen, but this place was once the real deal. The shabbified red-lit, raffish dive probably looked very similar when its most notorious patrons, The Krays, traded shots in this very basement. That’s shots as in drams: the place was once an illegal drinking den. Today, the bar is run by Maria and Costas Constantinou (see also Old Tom & English) and its main output is cocktails, served by bowler-hatted spiv barkeeps. Non-members are admitted free until 11pm; a charge may apply later when this party pit rocks until the small hours. Served tiki-style, £9 fixes include Deadwood Dick (a Margarita with jalapeño pepper-infused Patrón Silver Tequila), Kentucky Kevin (a bacon-infused Woodford Reserve bourbon Old Fashioned with a bitter bite) and Devil’s Goat (a smoky and slightly too acidic Laphroaig and Dewar’s whisky Sour, in an earthenware skull). Feeling hungry? Snack on pizza and panini.