SquareMeal Review of
You’ll find the stylish and rather romantic Arthur Hooper’s right by Borough Market staples The Wheatsheaf and El Pastor. Slicker than its neighbours, this is an intimate space featuring black interiors and effortlessly cool staff. This isn’t a case of style over substance, though, with the kitchen turning out a steady stream of simple, well-executed European small plates: herb-flecked lamb and bulgur meatballs come topped with a dollop of natural yoghurt, creamy burrata is given extra edge by crunchy almonds, peppers come dipped in sea-salt crystals, while sautéed rosemary new potatoes are golden, crispy and devilishly moreish. Heartier options include a comforting helping of silky pappardelle topped with tender slow-cooked beef and a sprinkle of breadcrumbs, while elsewhere there’s flaky roasted cod pepped up via a mustard velouté. A diverse wine list changes regularly and is served by the glass, while a short dessert menu features a truly indulgent chocolate hazelnut pot, served with salted caramel biscuits for dipping. Unlike some Borough hotspots, you can book a table here, so you’re at least guaranteed a seat.