This airy, suburban site has been through several incarnations in recent years, but it’s now a “lovely family-run establishment” serving up assured, stylish dishes in relaxed surroundings. Arbennig means ‘special’ in Welsh, and the place certainly lives up to its name, with berry-coloured walls and bistro furniture setting the stage for some “great” Euro-accented food – think roast turbot with Jersey royals, datterini tomato and green sauce or loin of pork with rainbow chard, wild garlic dumplings and grain mustard cream. There’s old-fashioned comfort too, maybe a ham-hock Scotch egg with vegetable pickle or a Longhorn burger with braised brisket, Snowdonia Cheddar and triple-cooked chips. Desserts also plough a similar furrow, witness lime pannacotta with chocolate and chilli ice cream. A decent international wine list eases things along nicely, and there are genuine smiles from the “first-class” staff. Punters now have the added attraction of the Arbennig Food Emporium next door for snacks, coffee, cakes and deli provisions.