It’s fair to say that owner Chris Johnson has achieved iconic status in the north-west since launching this small but stylish eatery in the early 1980s. His love affair with Italian food and wine remains undimmed and, with Louise Varley now heading the kitchen, you can expect to sample some unassuming but jaw-dropping dishes. Precise cooking and fabulous seasonal produce can be seen in belting starters such as seared Shetland scallops with broccoli and cauliflower stem purée and Amalfi lemon zest or the signature duck livers with Marsala cream on toasted brioche, while a generous slab of herb-crusted hake accompanied by a delicate, creamy herb sauce (and very good triple-cooked chips) has been declared spot-on. To finish, opt for prime artisan cheeses or one of the impeccable desserts – a perfectly judged, silky pannacotta with frangolina strawberry purée, for example.