Like a society dame with a punk edge, the classy ‘Dorch’ should be in every serious sybarite’s little black book. Launched in 1931, this bronze-mirrored doyenne's current drinks list plunders previous golden ages of the cocktail: classics such as Turf Club, Adonis, Martinez and Vesper never go out of fashion. Ask head honcho Guiliano Morandin to mix you a Granny Smith (gold-dusted Bacardi, nettle and apple) or The Casanova (vermouth, Aperol, strawberry, peach and basil) while you play ‘spot the famous face’: down the years, everyone from Judy Garland and Frank Sinatra to Sinitta and Simon have passed this way. Decadent bouchées, including a ‘cornetto’ of Wagyu tartare, truffle mayo and oscietra caviar, are a match for designer Thierry Despont’s flamboyantly camp decor – although our dislike of the high-backed banquette punctured by ridiculous flame-red ‘kryptonite’ shards is well documented.