Ynyshir

British, Japanese, Pan Asian·
££££
·
Gold Award
Powys, SY20 8TA ·Website ·Call01654 781209

SquareMeal Review of Ynyshir

Gold Award

Manicured grounds, luxury rooms, courteous service and the peaceful surrounds of an RSPB nature reserve have long been a lure for VIPs and those after some Welsh R&R – although the star attraction at this glorious restaurant-with-rooms is the “awesome” cooking of chef/patron Gareth Ward.

Leisurely meals unfurl over four hours of 20 doll-sized courses; lunch takes less time, but with nothing but the glorious Welsh countryside for miles around, where else would you be rushing off to? – except, perhaps, one of the 10 individually designed bedrooms, three of which are out in the garden.

From the first taste of the home-baked bread with cultured butter through to the final sampling of strawberries with elder and yuzu, meals are shot through with intense flavours – not surprising, given that wunderkind Ward trained at high-flying Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham.

‘Ingredient-led, flavour-driven, fat-fuelled and meat-obsessed’, says a note on the menu and the results speak for themselves: mackerel might be paired with rhubarb and back fat, pollack is exotically embellished with black beans, and salmon could be given the BBQ treatment.

There are also starring roles for Welsh lamb and Welsh Wagyu beef, prominent roles for pickling, curing and fermenting, while ‘desserts’ offer a profusion of sweet (and sometimes savoury) delights, from ‘birch porridge’ to miso treacle tart.

This is, to be sure, challenging cooking that will not be to everyone’s taste – not least vegetarians, who are unlikely to get the most from the meat-focused kitchen. But with only five tables in the main dining room, Ynyshir offers a highly personal dining experience at the cutting edge of modern British cooking.

Wines fit the top-end scenario, the dining room is a modern vision of simplicity to counteract the pyrotechnics on the plate, while the chef’s table and counter are a shoo-in for that special Michelin-starred occasion. All in all, “incredible everything and truly special in every way” – and well worth setting the satnav for.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisines
British, Japanese, Pan Asian
Ambience
Cool, Cosy, Dark and moody, Fine dining, Luxury, Quiet conversation, Quirky, Romantic, Unique, Widely spaced tables
Other Awards
SquareMeal UK Top 100, Two Michelin stars
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch
Alfresco And Views
Great views
Special Features
Chef’s table
People
Birthdays, Celebrations, Romantic, Special occasions
Food Hygiene Rating

About Ynyshir

Ynyshir needs little introduction. As the only two Michelin-starred in Wales (and one of eighteen in the entire UK), five AA rosettes and regular features in the UK's top five restaurants, its culinary prowess is well-established. However, the big factor that sets Ynyshir apart is its remoteness, which makes staying the night pretty much essential. Luckily, this restaurant is also a four-star hotel, with cosy rooms in which to sleep off the evening's four-hour meal. The kitchen, headed up by the equally well-renowned Gareth Ward, turns out pyrotechnic creations, heavily influenced by Japanese cuisine, with meat front and centre. 

A typical menu at Ynyshir is a true culinary journey, typically consisting of about twenty micro-courses. Aside from meat, there is also a focus on seafood. Earlier entries may include raw lobster tail with nahm jim, shrimp green curry and a chilli crab bun. These lighter bites then slowly blend into slightly meatier ones, with the likes of scallops with duck liver, aged bluefin tuna belly and miso cured black cod with shiitake.

Moving to the meat dishes, you will typically see the likes of a duck larb, pork char siu, Welsh lamb spare rib or chicken katsu, before beef takes over. In this section, you can expect none less than A5 beef (the wagyu of all wagyus). It could take any shape: a single bite burger, ribs with black bean or a sirloin with ponzu and caviar. Dessert is also usually spread across multiple tiny courses, which could take the form of buttermilk whey with Thai spices, Bramley apple with duck custard or tiramisu. 

The wine list is extensive and surprisingly reasonably priced, with a paragraph for each highlighting its background and best use. The back page of this list features fortified and sweet wines, but the whole list is only a few pages, showing Ynyshir's confidence in its decision-making. 


FAQs

Does Ynyshir have a Michelin star?

Ynyshir has two Michelin stars.

Helpful? 0

How much is a meal in Ynyshir?

Lunch or dinner at Ynyshir is £350 per person. Dinner with a room costs from £495 per person. You'll be treated to a multi-course menu that takes between 3-4 hours per sitting.

Helpful? 0

Can you stay at Ynyshir?

Yes, there are ten bedrooms at Ynyshir and because of the restaurant's fairly remote location, most people choose to stay. There are also three tipis for guests to stay in if they'd prefer.

Helpful? 0
Meet the team
Ynyshir

Gareth Ward

Chef Proprietor

Gareth Ward is the head chef and co-owner of Ynyshir in Wales, which is widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in the UK. Gareth has made regular TV appearances, featuring on popular programmes like MasterChef to showcase his unuique cooking style. The chef’s first big name on his CV was Michelin starred Hambleton Hall in Rutland, working under Aaron Patterson. His next big break would be working under Sat Bains at the chef’s eponymous restaurant, a steppingstone that led him to opening his own restaurant. Now at Ynyshir Gareth showcases his passion for live-fire cooking and Japanese flavours - a combination which has earned him two Michelin stars.


Location

Eglwys Fach, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 8TA

01654 781209

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon 08:30-15:30
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun 08:30-15:30
All day
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 09:00-17:00
Thu 09:00-17:00
Fri 09:00-17:00
Sat 09:00-17:00
Sun Closed

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