No one would expect a Chelsea bistro to fall under the umbrella of affordability, least of all one housed within The Cadogan Hotel. Yet despite its postcode, Willett’s feels surprisingly down to earth, with daily happy hours and a set menu that feels accessible to all, not just the well-heeled locals.
Step off Sloane Street and you’ll find yourself in the restaurant’s bar, where three arched alcoves glow behind a blue and bronzed marble counter, their shelves lined with bottles. The decor is eclectic, and wouldn’t look out of plan in an antiques shop, but it all comes together with a deliberately polished feel: dinky table lamps, a chalkboard sprawled with daily specials, vintage mirrors and trinkets.
If you have time, a drink at the bar is a must. We settle in with a Pimm’s Royale and a zippy English Garden cocktail, both arriving alongside a bowl of moreish, buttery Marmite popcorn, which we polish off in minutes. We wander past a brigade of chefs manning the open kitchen and into the main restaurant, where the townhouse’s original character shines through, from the sprawling fireplace to the intricate moulding that threads across the walls and ceiling. The same teal and sage-green palette continues, illuminated by the gentle glow of the kitchen and flickering candles.
At the helm is executive chef Michael Turner, who serves up a menu of confident British cooking with plenty of playful twists. Determined for every guest to feel right at home, every meal opens with a very British ritual: tea and biscuits. But it’s more than meets the eye: a cup of ‘tea’ is actually a warming mushroom, onion and tarragon soup, poured alongside a savoury cacao ‘Bourbon biscuit’ laced with caramelised onion and thyme. It’s a completely unexpected start to the meal, but we’re instantly won over by the kitchen’s imagination.
Next comes a trio of miniature sourdough crumpets: crisp on the outside, wonderfully airy within, dressed with Dorset crab that’s been zested up with lemon and fresh herbs. A hand-dived Orkney scallop 'scampi' follows, breadcrumbed and deep-fried then set atop a warm tartare sauce mixed through with sea vegetables and sharpened with tangy bursts of red onion.
Hotel restaurants have a habit of playing it safe, but Willett’s continues to differentiate itself. The beef tartare is unlike anything we’ve tried, its mustard seeds bringing gentle heat against a bold, slightly funky mushroom ketchup. Mains don’t hold back either, and the monkfish shank is a serious showstopper, expertly charred and served on the bone, swimming in a rich, buttery peppercorn sauce.
With confident modern British cooking and plenty of playful twists up its sleeve, Willett's is the kind of neighbourhood restaurant you'll find yourself returning to, again and again.