This newcomer pegs itself as traditional Italy and contemporary London in one suave package and, a few kinks aside, it succeeds. Expensive greens and bronzes, monochrome tiling and a separate aperitivo bar all conjure informal Italian glamour, while the kitchen emphasises its ‘from scratch’ approach by doing all of its own bread baking and meat curing. Our quality beef carpaccio di manzo to start was prettily plated but too timid with the horseradish, while the home-made pastas shouldn’t be missed – we recommend the simple, divine tagliolini cacio e pepe (sheep’s cheese and black pepper). Mains cover lamb shoulder cooked in clay, fish dishes and expensive steaks, while tiramisu ice cream – finished at-table with a pour of hot coffee – did the job for dessert. Plenty of Italian wine will see you through, leaving slow service as the sole drawback. We felt overlooked in our booth, but the charm of the staff leads us to believe that, with a bit of polish, Il Pampero should become a fully rounded taste of Italian luxe.