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With a bright, modern, open-plan look (think dark beams, panelling, bare floorboards and African artefacts), the Wildebeest Arms gets everything right. The food is no poor relation, either, attracting a loyal following with its spot-on modern European dishes – a compendium of updated classics that could include pan-fried pigeon breast with homemade granola, creamed goats’ cheese and semi-dried grapes, ahead of lemon sole with pomme purée, samphire, vanilla and brown shrimp butter or pork tenderloin with roasted fennel, Parmentier potatoes, apricot purée and crispy Parma ham. Wednesday night is steak night, while desserts might bring banana mille-feuille with toffee crème patisserie and glazed bananas. The location, close to the southern Norwich bypass, means the Wildebeest is peopled by a happy crowd of movers and shakers, plus high-rolling locals who also appreciate the serious wine list.
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