Vori Greek Kitchen

North Kensington is quickly earning its stripes as a food destination in the capital, with the area finding its niche as a hub for good quality, stripped back restaurants with a focus on small plates. Sitting just down the road from Holland Park station, Vori fits the neighbourhood mould and offers a sophisticated addition to West London’s Greek food scene, opting for a contemporary feel over a rustic taverna. Much the same as throughout the borough, this privilege doesn’t come cheap and with an ‘order everything and pop it in the middle’ mentality, it can be all too easy to overspend.

Whilst Vori is pitched as a restaurant offering small plates, make no mistake that this is a modest generalisation. Portion sizes are refreshingly generous and range from mezze style dips through to larger dishes cooked in the charcoal oven.

Sat on one of the small tables that line the room, we tuck straight into the meal. The first wave of food comes in quick succession, so much so that our table swiftly reaches full capacity. First, smoked Metsovone cheese packs a punch and is complimented by a well-matched sweet fig jam, while the feta pie, that’s easily capable of passing as a main dish, offers unmistakable tang and saltiness, but lacks an accompaniment to cut through its richness. For a tomatoey hit, prawn saganaki and butter beans in a tomato red pepper sauce offers a welcome change on the palate, and ensured a narrow escape from death by cheese.

Mains included melt-in-the-mouth beef shin sat atop cheesy Navox Graviera aubergine mash, offering a slightly lighter and very much welcomed alternative to potato, while squid with fava purée mentally transported us to a beachside taverna in just one bite.

We’d certainly suggest rounding off on a sweeter note. Portokalopita was our favourite, characteristically sticky and oozing orange syrup between layers of filo. The overall theme here sees rustic flavours treated with plenty of finesse, and is a well-received addition to the area.

The team behind the now defunct Hungry Donkey has headed north of the river to take on something a little more refined and sophisticated. Named after a beach on the island of Andros, Vori hopes to transport you to the very spot it’s inspired by, with a hit of Mediterranean flavours and carefully considered Greek wines, shifting your mind to dinner by the Aegean Sea. Sitting just down the road from Holland Park station is this Hellenic haven, with a golden glow illuminating the pavement outside through large windows, and drawing you in like a moth to a flame. Injections of blue and terracotta colours give a nod to the more traditional taverna style, whilst large golden lightshades and contemporary seating brings it back to the West London feel.

Greek food lends itself to sharing multiple plates between friends, and with plenty of choice, the main issue will be finding enough space on the table top to fit it all in. The food menu hits out with all of the Greek classics, from prawns saganaki to gigantes, and everything in between including a selection of mezze dips. Big flavours are paramount, with things such as smoked cheeses, lemon honey & rosemary roast potatoes and slow cooked beef shin giving rustic flare to the menu. For dessert, an often unheard of portokalopita takes centre stage – with its sticky orange syrup and unique texture, a result of being made with filo pastry rather than flour as with classic cakes.

As for wine, you may not be surprised to hear that you’ll be hard pushed to find one that doesn’t hail from Greece. But don’t think this means the list lacks in variety, with whites, reds and roses, as well as orange and sparkling varieties, there’s plenty to whet your whistle at this neighbourhood haunt.