SquareMeal Review
Bronze Award
In years gone by, this Chinatown site was home to an immensely rude family churning out delicious Chinese food. In its current guise it’s a far more welcoming place, serving less than delicious Vietnamese street food. Upon entering you’re greeted by the steam and clatter of the semi-open kitchen, a pleasing soundtrack to the ground floor. Stairs at the rear lead to a calmer first-floor dining room, and the whole outfit is fitted out in industrial metal and bamboo. The menu runs from bites of Vietnamese standards such as sticky, fresh summer rolls and artlessly plain seafood pancakes to pho, noodle and rice dishes. Our pho was filling yet sparse on meat and flavour, but strangely tasty deep-fried seafood balls with a parmesan cheese filling demonstrate the kitchen’s sporadic creativity. Service is calm but a little disorganised, while prices are fair and the location is prime: this isn’t somewhere to make a special trip for, but passing footfall and an appealing vibe make this an atmospheric pitstop.