This relaxed Kennington local has upped its game with the arrival of a new chef from the Marco Pierre White stable – although the commitment to locally & ethically sourced produce remains as strong as ever (the owners even have a thriving rooftop garden). Slow-roast Chiltern Farm pork belly is served with Cornish potatoes, spring greens & cider, free-range duck breast appears in Mediterranean garb with roast beetroot, cavolo nero and braised lentils, & there’s a ‘sustainable seafood stew’, too (pollock, hake, coley & rope-grown mussels). To finish, the brilliantly constructed British cheese selection from Neal’s Yard comes with its own tasting notes. The revamped wine list features a respectable number of southern Rhône varietals, all chosen for their natural affinity to the food – helpful staff are happy to advise.