Nestled deep in the sprawling South Downs National Park, Graffham is a picturesque but relatively ordinary little plot in the Sussex countryside, although with the rise and rise of The Woodcote, that could soon be set to change. Great British Menu chef Matt Gillan (previously of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Midsummer House) has moved in to lead the kitchen, and having recently undergone a tasteful renovation, this charming restaurant with rooms is quickly becoming a gastronomic destination for south locals and beyond.
After a swift glass of South Downs English sparkling in the cosy bar, we’re ushered into a conservatory-style dining room overlooking a network of green spaces, from a large patio terrace to the kitchen’s on-site gardens, and beyond that, the rolling Downs. This breath-taking setting naturally informs Gillan’s modern British menus, which are rooted in the landscape and ebb and flow with the seasons.
We start with a delicate crab tartlet flecked with crunchy little cubes of cucumber, served alongside cheesy, caviar-topped beignets served in a puddle of lobster bisque. It’s a headline-worthy dish that flies out the kitchen all evening, setting expectations high from the off. Elsewhere, venison is given a proper showcase – the loin, belly and shoulder are all executed brilliantly – and served with a luscious, preserved pear puree, bitter chicory and an oxblood-hued reduction. Dessert struggled to live up to similar lofty heights, a deconstructed yoghurt cake was slightly overcooked, although the dish was not without moments of ingenuity, including a fantastic, aniseed-heavy fennel sorbet that smacked with savouriness.
The team's hyper-local and seasonal approach extends to the wine list too, which champions Sussex producers alongside international bottles and a few bottles of vintage Bordeaux. Finally, a note on the service, which is warm and attentive to the nth degree, the sort that anyone hailing from outside of London might take for granted.
The Woodcote is onto something special here. Beyond Gillan’s high-level cooking, the team’s commitment to supporting local producers and growing as much as it can on site places it in a similar realm to some of the country’s finest sustainable restaurants. It's already carving out a name for itself with locals - here’s hoping the word spreads.