Set in the heart of Constable Country, The Sun Inn is a well-guarded secret of locals, although King Charles III did stop by just five days after our review.
This cosy former coaching inn, dating back to the 15th century, successfully blurs the line between traditional inn, restaurant and pub with rooms. The low-beamed interiors provide a warm welcome, and there’s a buzz amongst the guests, locals and dog walkers that other establishments could only wish for.
The menu is wide – spanning nibbles, an affordable casual menu, a weekday fixed-price house menu offering two courses for £20 and three courses for £25, starters, mains courses and desserts – as well as delectable freshly-made pasta. Simply put, this is great pub grub executed to a restaurant standard with Mediterranean flair, and it’s refreshing to see a public house that champions provenance and seasonality, as well as in-house pasta making.
When we visit, the menu is a celebration of East Anglian suppliers, from Mersea Island oysters, which are presented on pebbles and taste as fresh as the local waters they’ve been cultivated in, to Suffolk’s Tosier chocolate, which is crafted into a sumptuous melt-in-the mouth mousse accompanied by warm cookies from the oven and boozy cherries.
Texture is king here, too. Pillowy cacio e pepe frittella – little puffs filled with oozing cheese – are a playful start to the meal, and then there’s bouncy homemade gnocchi made with Old Winchester topped with crispy parsnip and a delicate hake with salsify and a voluptuously creamy brown bisque.
If you’re stopping by for a quick bite, the casual menu includes a moreish mozzarella fried bap with chilli ketchup, pickled red onion, watercress pesto and house fries, and is superbly good value at £12.50 given the portion size. With a regularly changing menu that varies according to the seasons, and therefore an element of surprise each time you book a table, diners will no doubt be thinking about their return visit before the meal is over. For anyone travelling up or down the A12, the best thing they can do is call in at The Sun Inn.