Scottish chef Bruce Rennie has headed up kitchens for the likes of Gary Rhodes, Martin Wishart and Rick Stein in his time, and since opening The Shore in 2015, the restaurant has become one of the most celebrated in Cornwall. It isn't a big operation - the kitchen and dining room are both small, and Rennie works alone in the kitchen, often serving food as well as cooking it. Rennie is also the decorator, handyman, receptionist and waiter - therein lies the charm of The Shore.
The restaurant is cosy and bright inside, with plain wooden tables and chairs providing space for the food to do all the talking. As mentioned, Rennie decorated the place himself and he has done a great job of making it feel homely, without it being ostentatious. The Shore conforms to the Japanese concept of omotenashi - this translates as 'to wholeheartedly look after guests', and involves the anticipation of your guests every need, and showing genuine appreciation that they have come to visit you. In practice, it means The Shore only has room for a few guests each day, but you can expect extremely generous and thoughtful service.
The menu, meanwhile, is pescatarian, focusing on Cornish fish and seafood - widely considered among the best in the world - as well as local herbs and vegetables. A typical menu at The Shore is six courses and follows a traditional Japanese format also, starting with 'Tsukidashi' ('the first things'), then serving a soup, something fresh, something cooked over coals, a rice course and a sweet to finish. Past dishes have included smoked fish custard with spider crab and trout roe, brill in roasted bone broth, grilled red mullet with Cornish lemon kosho, rosemary and soy, and dark chocolate with miso ice cream and matcha kasutera.