The Rose Deal

A common affliction of gastropubs is the removal of all homely charms in favour of slick, sterile interiors. The Rose understands its role as a slightly eccentric town’s local and manages to appeal to both out-of-towners looking for a swish seaside escape and its regulars who want to feel free to pop in whatever the weather.

There’s a steady stream of diners and drinkers who keep both candlelit dining rooms and the long, polished wooden bar buzzy on our visit, with the open kitchen adding to the dynamism of the space. Some come for a pint, others for the extremely good cocktails, but most are there for a meal.

Many menus these days pay lip service to the seasons somehow, but the difference here is the staunch commitment to using the best of British in every dish. The abundance of local strawberries results in unusual combinations of fish and fruit, and peaches are paired with tomatoes for a light plate that refuses to bend to the usual rules of what constitutes as a starter.

Seafood naturally takes the leading role. A combination of silk-smooth taramasalata with radishes and chicory leaves gave sweet and salty tempered with bitterness and a peppery bite. A main of confit trout was soft and yielding with a blush centre and a scattering of fat roe that burst like grown up popping candy. The accompanying crispy Pink Firs and a creamy dill sauce made for a classic, please-all plate. Unusually, a bread back at the start was one of the best things we ate. It was thick, salty focaccia with goat’s curd drenched in all kinds of intense flavours from herbs, capers and a nip of zest. That and a glass of something cold would nearly be enough.

And yet we soldiered on to dessert which was pleasant enough (grilled chiffon cake with strawberries) but didn’t blow our socks off. However, the overall experience is so charming that even if faced with the same food again we’d still go for the sweets, just to linger a little longer in one of the colourful, cosy corners and be served by the companiable team.

Set on Deal’s handsome High Street, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the beach and pier, The Rose is a characterful boutique hotel, bar and restaurant that brings a distinctly modern sensibility to a historic East Kent setting. The 200-year-old building has been through several incarnations, from Victorian hotel and popular drinking house to traditional pub, before reopening in 2018 following an extensive renovation.

At the heart of The Rose is its relaxed restaurant, where seasonal British cooking takes its cues from the produce of the Kent coast and surrounding countryside. The kitchen has an emphasis on fresh, carefully sourced ingredients, with dishes that balance a contemporary approach with the comforting feel of a neighbourhood restaurant. The current summer menu, for example, includes Vesuvio tomatoes, white peaches and green almonds, tuna crudo with carosello cucumber and collatura, and confit duck with piattoni beans, dandelion and orange.

The restaurant is overseen by executive chef Nuno Mendes, whose collaboration with The Rose has brought a more ambitious, ingredient-led style to the kitchen, with an emphasis on curing, preserving, smoking and cooking over charcoal.

There’s plenty to recommend beyond dinner, too. Breakfast is served daily, while a weekly set lunch runs from Tuesday to Saturday. What's more, the bar makes The Rose an easy choice for a drink before dinner or a more casual visit.

With its colourful, thoughtfully designed interiors, welcoming atmosphere and enviable position among Deal’s independent shops and galleries, The Rose feels equally suited to a leisurely lunch, relaxed dinner or weekend escape by the sea.