Once a modest small-town hotel, Blackaddie has been transformed since chef Ian McAndrew arrived in 2007. More refinements are planned for the accommodation, but the food side is well in hand – as you would expect from a former Michelin star holder, catering consultant & cookery book author. The dining room is classic country house, service is homely & the kitchen relies on first-rate local ingredients. An accomplished starter such as a combo of seared herb-crusted tuna, smoked haddock & apple salad, brandade of haddock, & smoked salmon & crab roulade could precede a trio of 28-day, dry-aged Scotch beef fillet (tournedos, mini-burger & a marinated, Moroccan-style salad). Desserts such as a ’study in cinnamon’ are in a similarly accomplished vein. The wine list includes a decent range by the glass from £4.50.