Beautifully located right by the bridge, The Relais has breathed new life back into what for years was the landmark Red Lion pub. Today, the nook and crannyish appeal of the old site has been replaced by something more light and airy whose main feature is the Clipper restaurant. The attractions are clear. The restaurant has its own easy charm, nicely designed with the feel of being in an English country house, perfectly in tune with its customer base. A half boat hull hung from the high ceiling embues the room with a sense of place and airy brightness while a sound, uncomplicated menu matches the genteel decor to a tee – nothing too overblown or over-priced. Expect steak tartare with a quail egg, salmon and cod fish cakes with sautéed spinach and parsley sauce or venison Wellington with a lovely depth of flavour and apple tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream served, in our case, with multiple spoons.
Lots of attractive tables inside, some with banquettes, compete in summer with the notable outdoor space in the couryard behind the hotel, marked out by an elegant pergola. Breakfasts are as good as afternoon teas, while old school service doffs a hat to regulars. We believe there's more still to come from this new iteration of the old Red Lion – watch this space.