Behind its warm, honey-stone facade, this greatly extended, immaculately thatched village inn-with-rooms now serves a version of fine contemporary cooking that blurs the distinction between ‘pub’ and ‘restaurant’. Pubby ideas probably win the day, although it really doesn’t matter too much – they genuinely care about the food here and it shows. On offer, you might find starters of fried duck egg with brown shrimp and nut butter dressing or potted smoked mackerel with spelt-bread toast ahead of tempting combinations such as rabbit and smoked bacon pie with buttered leeks or plaice with creamy champ potatoes and wild garlic butter. Crispy coley and chips also appeals to the traditionalists. You may be stretched to fit in a pud, but it you want to indulge look no further than flourless citrus cake with blood-orange sorbet.