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Part of a small group that also includes Mayfair’s Only Running Footman, this elegant gastropub’s name reflects its location in the heart of the Portman Estate. Once used for law enforcement – the cells in the basement now hold cases of wine – The Portman is a foursquare, solid pub with an island bar downstairs & smarter dining room above (used mainly for functions). On sunny days, Sagres, Murphy’s & Amstel are drunk at the outside tables, while the menu loosely follows the seasons: expect curiosities such as spelt tagliatelle with confit rabbit, braised leeks & chanterelles, as well as standard breakfasts, Aberdeen Angus burgers & some lively fish dishes (perhaps sea bass with saffron potatoes, spinach & sauce vierge). The crowd is affluent, & it’s open 365 days a year.
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