Leith has its share of cafés, bars and Michelin-starred restaurants, but when it comes to a wholly traditional, no-nonsense pub with good beer, the choice narrows to just one. Located on the trendy Shore (the riverside thoroughfare that forms the historic heart of the old port), Malt & Hops has a pair of navigation lights in its windows. Inside, there’s a single room with brewery mirrors, wood panelling, an open fire and dried hops entwined over the ceiling – plus up to eight real ales ranging from Scottish stars such as Stewart’s, Knops or Tempest to Marston’s, Oakham or Wharfedale Dark Horse from south of the border. Whisky lovers have more than 30 single malts to choose from, while solid fuel comes from stovies, toasties and lunchtime pub grub (think scampi, meat pies and sausages).