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As its name suggests, The Magnum aims to straddle the divide between watering hole and restaurant, with a horseshoe bar at the centre of things: drinkers congregate on one side, diners assemble on the other. One menu covers both spaces, and it’s a please-all compendium of familiar ideas in the bistro/brasserie mould of baked whole Camembert, Cullen skink, charcuterie platters, burgers, rib-eye steak with hand-cut chips and so on. You can also get a few more ambitious restaurant dishes in the evening, perhaps goats’ cheese and thyme brûlée, grilled sea bass fillet with roasted Jerusalem artichokes and smoked tomato sauce or banana, toffee and custard crumble. There are some unusual ice creams too. The wine list is currently being upgraded with some additional monthly selections; otherwise expect a workmanlike assortment of beers, lagers and cocktails.
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