Housed within Apex Hotel City of London, this best-of-British offering seeks to summon up the ghost of 17th-century diarist Samuel Pepys – in fact the name is a nod to one of his favourite fish, the eel-like lamprey. However, this is no themed tavern: the bar and restaurant are fitted out with stylish peacock-blue upholstery and streaked marble surfaces, while the all-day menu features plenty of updated Brit classics, including ‘The Lampery Pye’ – a meaty reboot involving slow-cooked beef cheek and prunes. However, we plumped for an enjoyable starter of baked Scottish scallops seasoned with zesty lime and garlic, ahead of a fatty bacon chop accompanied by an oozing fried duck egg and a stack of triple-cooked chips – although flaky Dover sole topped with hazelnut butter, lemon and capers was an equally comforting prospect. Retro puddings include twice-baked apple crumble as well as jelly and ice cream, but we went for the rich, gooey chocolate and salted caramel pudding, served with pecan ice cream. Afterwards, you can unwind with a cocktail in the bar, which offers remixed classics such as The Red Snapper – a gin-based twist on the Bloody Mary topped with ‘clamato’ juice. Located near Tower Bridge, we reckon The Lampery is best suited to professionals staying overnight in the capital, or those looking for a quick bite in the City.