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An ode to Steve, this restaurant, bar and club has suitably macho styling and former Hawksmoor chef Richard Sandiford in the kitchen. Brown leather, black walls and faux-fur rugs inform the bachelor-pad decor, which is peppered with references to McQueen movies. Continuing the theme, you’ll find cocktails including a Popcorn Old Fashioned (popcorn-infused bourbon) on the strapping list. Sandiford’s short menu deals in well-presented, quality Brit food: Our ox cheek and kidney pithivier was a lesson in crispy, creamy comfort food, while fried crab cakes were a winning combination of flaky flesh and crunchy breadcrumbs – if a slightly meagre portion. There’s no doubting value when it comes to the steaks however, as our rib-eye arrived perfectly cooked and full of flavour. Hawksmoor fans will be pleased to find stilton hollandaise sauce, as well as sides of triple-cooked chips and smoked mac ‘n’ cheese. Globetrotting wines include a small-but-varied range by the glass, while staff work hard to please. The Grill’s only problem is being hidden at the back of McQueen and therefore rarely full, but considering the efforts being made, word deserves to get out.
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