The Estuary Grill at St. Enodoc Hotel

Padstow might belong to Rick Stein, but take the ferry across the estuary to Rock and you're entering Paul Ainsworth territory. To add to their Cornish restaurant empire, Paul and Emma have given the St Enodoc Hotel a stylish reboot, bringing their signature style to its centerpiece restaurant, the Estuary Grill.

The clue’s in the name: whether you're tucked inside the dining room or lounging on the terrace, you’re treated to some gorgeous views of the estuary, where the tide slips lazily between the two towns. Cows graze in nearby fields, fishing boats chug along the water, and dog-walkers scatter across the sand below. It’s a pristine slice of Cornish life.

The cooking is every bit as sharp as you'd expect from the team behind Paul Ainsworth at No. 6, Caffè Rojano, and The Mariners (just a four minute stroll down the road). This time around, Ainsworth draws heavily on his Seychellois roots, serving up an Indian Ocean-inspired menu influenced by his mother’s heritage. Frankly, it’s a crime we had to wait this long for his Indian dishes, because they’re absolutely delicious. Highlights include a rich monkfish and prawn curry fragrant with coconut and curry leaf, tender chicken seekh kebabs, and crisp soft shell crab in feather-light tempura batter.

The absolute star of the show, though, is the lamb shank biryani, served under a burnished lid of puff pastry studded with whole spices. Crack through the buttery crust and you’re met with a cloud of aromatic steam, exposing layers of tender pulled lamb, fragrant herbs, and spiced rice. It’s an absolute triumph. And, unlike a regular biryani, you can eat the pastry too.

If Indian food isn't your bag, there’s also a lineup of classical seasonal plates championing local seafood. While the traditional coastal dishes feel a touch mismatched alongside the curry menu, this is a hotel catering to all comers, and there’s no denying the talent in the kitchen. Expect the same exacting standard whether you order a burger or a biryani, or breakfast, which is superb.

Service is positive, rigorous and friendly, and alongside a well-curated wine list it seals the deal on a brilliant new era for this beloved Cornish hotel.

The Estuary Grill is located within the St. Enodoc Hotel in Rock, offering diners a picturesque setting overlooking the Camel Estuary. This coastal restaurant provides a relaxed dining experience, with views that highlight the natural beauty of the surrounding area.

The restaurant sits at the heart of The Ainsworth Collection's food and drink offering at the newly redeveloped St Enodoc hotel, under the helm of restaurateurs Paul and Emma Ainsworth. The menu at The Estuary Grill focuses on modern British cuisine, showcasing fresh, locally sourced ingredients that takes full advantage of everything the county’s land and sea has to offer. Produce here has been shaped by owner Paul Ainsworth's 18 years of supplier relationships in Cornwall, with an emphasis on seasonal and local ingredients. 

Dry-aged cuts from award-winning Philip Warren Butchers anchor the grill menu, while fish and seafood arrive fresh from Flying Fish, sourced daily from the waters just beyond the window. A blackboard lists market-price specials, featuring the likes of prime ribs, sirloins, pork chops, and whole fish, with their availability dictated by the catch and the season rather than a fixed menu.

At the kitchen's core is an Asado grill by Somerset specialists Fire Made, which brings an open-fire intensity to the cooking. Expect the kind of char and depth that only live fire delivers, applied to produce of genuine provenance. Alongside grill classics such as the St. Enodoc burger, the menu takes an unexpected turn, drawing on Ainsworth's Seychellois heritage to introduce the bold, aromatic flavours of the Indian Ocean.

Guests can enjoy their meals while taking in the stunning views of the water and surrounding landscape. The setting is well-suited to those seeking a relaxed meal with a scenic backdrop, whether for a leisurely lunch or a more formal evening occasion.