The Dining Room at Whatley Manor

Lavishly turned out as a country-chic hotel, this ivy-clad Wiltshire grandee is now one of the UK’s great escapes – an epicurean package crowned by the immaculately appointed Dining Room.

Chef Niall Keating used to work at Restaurant Sat Bains in Nottingham, but since taking over the reins here has proved himself very much his own man, beefing up the tasting menu to 12-plus courses and garnering two Michelin stars in the process.

Global influences abound, although there’s a fondness for Asian twists – as in turbot with pear and yuzukosho seasoning or a pairing of dried tuna, miso soup and turnip. Such zesty experimentation occasionally teeters off-course, but the gastronomically curious will have a field day and there's much to enjoy – from silken tofu with Exmoor caviar and chicken broth to a dessert involving clementines, black truffle and miso – while there are separate menus for vegetarians, vegans and pescatarians.

Simpler pleasures, such as crisp-crusted mini sourdough loaves and post-dessert ‘treats’ also demonstrate a slick kitchen, while terse menu descriptions – tempura smoked eel, perilla; salmon, aloe vera, yeast beurre blanc; anjou pigeon, kohlrabi, date, ssamjang – means that the creativity lavished on ingredients in the kitchen ensures that what arrives on the plate often comes as a total surprise.

Equally dynamic wine pairings are a worthwhile investment, not least if you go down the wine flight route, while the sight of the chefs out front is a nice touch. If you want to get even closer to the chef action, there are a few tables within the kitchen at lunchtime.

For big-event dining in a sumptuous, pastoral setting, Whatley Manor’s still a winner, but there’s more to do than eat here – the spa is one of the best in southern England and the gardens a relaxing spot to while away an hour or two with the weekend papers and a gin and tonic.

Wiltshire's Whatley Manor has long been a fixture of the UK's luxury hotel scene, but it was only relatively recently that it became a fixture on the fine dining scene too. Under the leadership of former executive chef Niall Keating, the Dining Room at Whatley Manor rose to two Michelin star status courtesy of precise tasting menu odysseys and crisp service. Keating has since departed to work on a new project, but the Dining Room remains a destination for exceptional food, under the watchful eye of new executive chef Ricki Weston. 

As you'd expect from this picturesque country manor retreat, beautiful views of Wiltshire abound, and the dining room feels natural and organic, with a gentle, serene colour palette matching pristine white tablecloths and two elegant teardrop chandeliers hanging from the tall ceiling.

The menu gives hints of what's to come via short descriptions and lists of ingredients. The experience kicks off with a series of snacks - beetroot, suet, pine and thyme, then caviar, chicken and parsnip - before gliding easily into five 'main' courses. Dishes are cooked with absolute precision and there's an emphasis on unique and interesting flavour combinations. This is certainly an experience for adventurous eaters who are willing to put their evenings in the safe hands of the Dining Room kitchen, but that said, there are vegetarian and pescatarian menus available for those who choose not to eat meat.

Lost amid the hype around the Dining Room's many awards is its Green Michelin Star - awarded by Michelin to restaurants that show a real commitment to sustainable practices. The Dining Room is designed to be as efficient as possible, with 4 beehives and on-site orchard providing honey, fruit and wild flowers. They also use local, ethical producers whenever possible, and convert all food waste into methane gas for fuel.