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SquareMeal Review of The Warwick at Mallory Court

Gold Award

Stu Deeley, previously the head chef of Smoke at Hampton Manor, may have swapped one hotel restaurant for another, but The Warwick at Mallory Court is totally different to his last gig, trading open-fire cooking for a refined tasting menu experience at a traditional country house in Leamington Spa. The launch of The Warwick with Stu at the helm marks a homecoming for the chef, who worked at the hotel during his early career. He's since built a bulletproof armoury of experience, including winning a MasterChef title, and returned with the sort of confident cooking style that could put The Warwick in the running for a Michelin star.

Stu’s eight-course tasting menu is an unfathomable £15 more than the a la carte offering - the price of a cocktail – and includes a spectrum of well balanced, brilliantly executed dishes rooted in seasonal British produce. A sprightly pea and mint gazpacho with crunchy blanched peas and velvet burrata are a lesson in well-judged restraint, allowing the freshness of the ingredients to shine on their own. Rare beef rump cap and a sticky medallion of glazed ox cheek is meticulous in its accompaniments: a thumb sized potato fondant laced with shaved truffle, a splodge of caramelised black garlic puree, sweet artichoke jam and the welcome tang of pickled pear.

Most of Stu’s ideas focus on familiar British flavours revived with a playful, often indulgent, twist. A pile of kataifi pastry hides a tempura soft-boiled egg and a warm puddle of tartare sauce, the sauce clinging to each feathery shard. This is a menu that aims to please, and dessert, a pitch-perfect chocolate fondant tart with fresh mint ice cream, solidifies that point.

The pacing is unhurried, and service is friendly and well-judged. Sure, the wood-panelled dining room and widely spaced round tables feel like they haven’t changed much over the years, but it fits with Mallory’s traditional charm. Besides, The Warwick isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel. ‘I just want to make it turn really, really well’, says Stu.

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Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Over £80
Cuisine
British, Modern European, Vegetarian friendly
Ambience
Fine dining, Luxury, Quiet conversation
Food Occasions
Dinner, Sunday roast
Perfect for
Birthdays, Celebrations, Special occasions

About

The Warwick at Mallory Court Country House Hotel & Spa offers a confident, produce-led dining experience in a refined country house setting. Led by Executive Head Chef Stu Deeley, the restaurant blends classical British cooking with a light contemporary touch, all grounded in a clear respect for seasonality and provenance. It is a space that balances tradition with creativity, bringing warmth, elegance and a sense of place to every part of the experience.

The setting is both formal and welcoming. Housed within Mallory Court’s historic estate, the dining room draws on the building’s heritage while introducing a fresh aesthetic. The restaurant takes its name from the nearby town of Warwick, with its castle, craftsmanship and deep-rooted history providing a quiet influence on the atmosphere. Inside, the space feels calm and polished, offering a fitting backdrop to a menu that is thoughtful, well-paced and full of detail.

The food is driven by the seasons and shaped by the surrounding gardens. Many of the ingredients come directly from Mallory Court’s kitchen garden, which provides year-round produce grown just metres from the pass. Deeley’s menu includes a five-course Taste of the Season offering, as well as a shorter three-course option. Dishes are bold but grounded, with combinations that feel fresh, familiar and deeply satisfying. Highlights include Cornish crab with Isle of Wight tomatoes, a delicate peas and mint gazpacho served with globe artichoke and burrata, and poussin with Asian flavours and a Jamón sauce, a nod to Deeley’s love of San Sebastián. Desserts carry a more nostalgic tone, including an evolving version of his childhood baked Alaska.

The drinks offering complements the food without overshadowing it, with a considered wine list and pairings that enhance each dish. Service is attentive but relaxed, allowing the focus to remain on the cooking and the quality of the ingredients.

The Warwick is not about spectacle, but about substance. It brings together the maturity of a heritage property with the energy and precision of one of the region’s most respected chefs. Whether you’re here for a celebratory tasting menu or a quiet midweek dinner, it offers a dining experience full of confidence, rooted in flavour and designed to linger long after the final course.

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FAQs

Can I book a table?

Yes you can make a reservation via the website.

Details

Get directions to The Warwick at Mallory Court Get directions to The Warwick at Mallory Court
Location
Mallory Court Hotel, Harbury Lane, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, CV33 9QB

01926 330 214 01926 330 214

Website

Opening Times

Lunch
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed Closed
Thu Closed
Fri Closed
Sat Closed
Sun 13:00-14:30
Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue Closed
Wed 18:30-21:15
Thu 18:30-21:15
Fri 18:30-21:15
Sat 18:30-21:15
Sun 18:30-20:30

Reviews

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Wendy M

05 July 2009  
Food & Drink 5
Service 4
Atmosphere 4.5
Value 5
Standard of food and drink from beginning to end was first-rate. Flawlessly detailed dishes brimming with flavour and textures including the generous variety of canapé served at perfect temperature, some warm, some cold (5 total). If tonight was an indication of the normal standard then this establishment deserves 2 stars. Neither John Campbell (Vineyard) nor Michael Caines (Gidleigh Park) in my experience have achieved this standard. The menu read interestingly. Wines favoured France. Technically the best bisque I have had anywhere, complete with scallop pieces and crab ravioli which helped transcend this starter to ethereal. A decorative plate of duck and foie gras terrine was also delectable. Two mains of rabbit loin yielded softly as did the delicate flavoured offal and pork belly served alongside. Morello cherry ice cream served with pistachio cake and pistachio ice-cream scattered with whole cherries only added to contentment. Service was good but not on par with the kitchen where fastidiously presented dishes [just the right side of fussy] were matched in taste and produced by a Chef with a well-tuned palate. Two menus comprising 3 courses £40 or £55. Generous sized tables were housed in a comfortably arranged dining room. I just wish I was within easy striking distance of this homely Country House.
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01926 330 214 01926 330 214

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