Handsomely rejigged by its new owners in 2017, this Edwardian hostelry is drawing a crowd for its food and an improved range of craft brews. The oak-panelled ground-floor bar is where to sample the beers; upstairs, a smart dining room offers seasonal British menus. Starters of chilli salt squid, or Jerusalem artichokes, crispy kale and sunflower seeds with a truffle dressing set the tone for above-average pub food that might also include flaky pan-fried hake with leeks, and our rich, meaty (but over-salted) cottage pie. Finish with exemplary Bramley apple pie with caramelised chestnuts and cinnamon parfait. The 72, a sherry- and olive-tone basement bar reminiscent of 1940s Madrid, is worth discovering for its Poire William Martini, Honey & Ginger Mojito and Spicy Coach (Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila, Manzanilla, lime and green jalapeño). Small plates here include beefburger sliders, charcuterie plates and buttermilk chicken in spiced tomato and ale.
020 7224 4022
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