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The Blue Stoops

British, Pubs·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of The Blue Stoops

Silver Award

The original Blue Stoops pub was said to be ‘so old no one knew of its beginning.’ Now, centuries later, this historic boozer is back, with an electric blue facade that won’t be forgotten in a hurry.

London’s ever-evolving gastropub scene has leaned heavily toward more refined, more restaurant-like experiences, sometimes erasing the heart and soul of a local boozer. But not here - the Blue Stoops is the life of the party, where boisterous patrons gather around the bar, sipping on hand-pulled pale ales and bitters drawn from swan-neck taps.

Chequered floor tiles, leather banquettes, and endless wood panelling create a warm, laid-back atmosphere which spills into the curtained-off dining room. Tables are set just slightly too close for comfort, but that only adds to the lively energy, as skilful staff seamlessly weave past with steaming plates. Retro Allsopp & Son’s posters dot the walls, while their iconic raised-hand logo, is proudly displayed around the venue: lining the front of the bar, hanging above the entrance, even taking centre stage on a branded mirror on the back wall, which is flanked by dish of the day chalkboards.

Our advice - arrive hungry. The menu is packed with unapologetic, assertive pub grub, like a slice of crusty bread slathered in an intense anchovy pate. Whilst it could easily be too much, the tactical addition of pickled shallot rings brings much-needed acidity, cutting through the richness with a razor-sharp precision. Elsewhere, an oven-baked scallop arrives in a half shell, drowning in chive butter. It’s perhaps lacking in seasoning, relying on a hefty squeeze of lemon to add that extra dimension.

At the pass is Lorcan Spiteri (the man behind Caravel), whose deft touch elevates the pub’s British classics. There’s a daily changing menu, with early standouts already carving a place for themselves as staples. One such dish is the pork chop; tenderly cooked and sporting a ridge of perfectly rendered fat. A beef and ale pie is hearty and generously peppered, stuffed to the brim under a thin-pastry crust. The middle is a tad underdone, whilst edges are overly-crisp, but these are the finest of details and it's hard to care too much when the rest is so good.

Even the desserts hit the mark. Caramelised apples and pears are topped with a nutty crumble and vanilla-speckled ice cream that melts into a deliciously messy pool. It’s the sort of proper dessert that pushes fine dining far from mind.

The Blue Stoops isn’t your cheapest pub. Mains float around the £25 mark, before sides, but it's some seriously good grub, bringing the traditional pub experience back to life - just with a bit more flair.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - Under £30
Cuisines
British, Pubs
Ambience
Cosy, Traditional, Unique
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch, Sunday roast

About

The Blue Stoops is a pub in Kensington masterminded by Jamie Allsopp, who revived his family’s heritage brewing brand in 2021 and has been going from strength to strength ever since. This venture is the latest part of the brand’s almost 300-year history which includes the invention of the IPA by Jamie’s family seven generations ago. The family is also working alongside Charlie McVeigh who founded The Draft House group and is sure to provide great guidance on this project. 

The name of the pub is taken from one of the same name in the brewery’s town of origin Burton-on-Trent in the Midlands. The drinks offering here focuses on cask ales and the family’s ‘lost beers’ which Jamie has found and revived over the last few years. The family hopes that these beers will regain their prestige and will soon be served in public houses up and down the country. These beers are very drinkable so will take their place on the taps alongside ever-popular pale ales, IPAs and bitters. 

The food menu at The Blue Stoops will be overseen by chef Lorcan Spiteri whose resume includes Quo Vadis, The Pontoon at Studio Kitchen which he ran with his brother and Caravel;his canalboat restaurant serving an eclectic and seasonal menu. The food at The Blue Stoop will take center stage serving up traditional British pub classics. Expect simple seasonal dishes with elevated and contemporary twists. 

Not only is this pub a great place for a drink and some proper food but it marks an important chapter in British brewing history. This makes it a special place to enjoy every occasion from a leisurely evening pint to big family celebrations. 


FAQs

When does The Blue Stoops open?

The Blue Stoops will open in September 2024

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The Blue Stoops is featured in

Location

127-129 Kensington Church Street, Kensington, London, W8 7LP

020 7123 7929 020 7123 7929

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