‘Tapas & paella’ in the strapline for this branch of the Cambio de Tercio group, and it remains the venue’s real selling point. On summer evenings, gaggles of happy punters spill out of the concertina doors onto the pavement, while bright decor, Catalan charm and sunny Iberian service keeps things cheery on the rainiest of days. Among the sharing plates, you can't go wrong with traditional albondigas (meatballs), Galician-style octopus or Padrón peppers, but also note the aubergine chips with rosemary honey and some exceptional jamón ibérico. While the standard tapas deliver on quality, the kitchen also ups the ante by offering, say, mini Wagyu burgers or grilled Iberian pork with chorizo purée and figs. Gourmet paellas (six versions) are as popular as ever, and an excellent sherry list caps off a first-rate offering.