Taro Brighton sits on Ship Street, just moments from the seafront, its yellow facade bringing a cheerful note to the city. Inside, the mood is informal and lively, with simple canteen-style seating and a hum of conversation.
We visit on a Friday evening and find every table taken, the atmosphere buzzy and vibrant. Staff are a genuine highlight from the outset, friendly and attentive, helping the space feel welcoming and relaxed.
Serving a wide-ranging Japanese menu that spans bento boxes, handmade sushi and sashimi and ramen, the offering is broad and accessible.
We begin with chicken gyoza, which arrive crisp and golden with a juicy, well-seasoned filling and prove to be one of the strongest dishes of the meal. The tori karaage, a deep-fried marinated chicken recommended by our server, is similarly satisfying, intensely crisp on the outside, tender within and the portion is so generous we struggle to finish it all.
The Wagyu beef steak bento box is positioned as one of the menu’s premium offerings and arrives with plenty of variety, including teriyaki-glazed beef over rice, sushi, sashimi, edamame and salad. While enjoyable in parts, it does not quite deliver the indulgence you might expect at this price point. The beef leans a little fattier than anticipated, while the teriyaki sauce is a touch too sweet and overpowering and doesn't allow the flavour of the meat to shine through. A bowl of shoyu pork ramen, however, proves comforting and filling, delivering warming umami flavours.
The drinks offering holds its own with cocktails, wine, beer, sake and Japanese whiskies available. We opted for spicy margaritas, which were perfectly balanced with a well-judged chilli kick.
Dessert is a highlight. Coconut mochi ice cream delivers a fragrant, creamy coconut flavour, offset by a satisfyingly chewy exterior. It's a refreshing way to end the meal and leaves a strong final impression.
Overall, Taro Brighton succeeds as a vibrant and approachable Japanese restaurant with generous portions and genuinely warm service. While some higher-end dishes fall short of expectation, its atmosphere, consistency and crowd-pleasing staples explain its popularity.