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More than 10 years ago, Nigel Tabb bought up the old Royal Standard pub in Truro and transformed into an agreeably civilised neighbourhood restaurant – the kind of place where the pace in the smart lilac-hued dining room is unhurried and the classy cooking rarely fails to impress. Nigel satisfies local appetites by putting the emphasis on fine local materials and raiding the Mediterranean for ideas. Glazed goats’ cheese arrives with beetroot stir-fry, pickled cucumber and horseradish dressing, while pot-roast belly pork with tomatoes, olives, red wine and chorizo gets an exotic kick from harissa couscous and chilli oil. Desserts such as dark chocolate marquise with peanut-butter ice cream are equally appealing. At lunchtime you can plump for the conventional set menu or go down the global tapas route – think hake fricassee or tempura-style courgettes. Service is always “second to none”, confirms a regular.
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