For Victoria Park Village’s ‘staycationing locals’ who can’t get to Cagliari this year, rustic Sardinian trattoria, Su Sazzagoni, will have to do. Its wine list is exclusively from the island, & the menu (a slightly more pan-Italian affair) boasts the likes of culurgiones dumplings with potatoes, cheese & mint, spaghetti with bottarga, & seafood fregola, in among the pizza & pasta. There’s also a growing deli selection of Sardinian bits & bobs alongside Italian larder essentials. The restaurant is popular, & things can get pretty cramped at those long communal tables by night & at the weekend, though by day it makes a quiet hideaway for coffee, cake, focaccia & free Wi-Fi. ‘Superb’ service & a jolly atmosphere go a long way, but variable quality at ‘steep’ prices precludes a wholehearted thumbs up.