Once merely the preserve of splendid sausages, this bold, no-frills retro bolthole has diversified into ‘northern soul food’. On the menu, this translates as a whistle-stop tour of American diner favourites – from po’ boy lunches, burgers or meatloaf with tomato sauce, to various versions of mac & cheese – with the odd Brit pub classic thrown in: the likes of ham, egg and chips or bangers and mash. Hot dogs are made with old-fashioned sausages and often topped with more meat (the ‘porklife’ version crams in bacon jam, bacon, pulled pork, slaw, bacon crumb and barbecue sauce). On Tuesdays, a fried-chicken menu (featuring chicken and biscuits, and chicken with waffles, bacon and maple syrup) adds an extra artery-busting dimension to the usual line-up, and there’s brunch on Sundays. Squeeze yourself into one of the rough-ply booths (not for the claustrophobic) or grab a table on the airier main floor.