Sonny's Kitchen closed permanently on 21 July 2019
Bursting at the seams again, Sonny’s Kitchen gained new life after a 2012 relaunch and there’s a contained excitement about the place as it nears its 30th birthday. The bar is packed with locals, out for a quick drink and a bite to eat, while the restaurant – neutral-toned and seemly – is filled with Barnes’ bourgeoisie. The influence of Michelin-starred co-owner Phil Howard (The Square), is doubtless a draw, but charming, pacey service also has an impact. As does the “good value” food, from a modern European menu that marries both comfort and class. The kitchen has its wobbles, and though you’ll find the likes of steamed mutton pudding and pan-fried sea bass with pickled walnuts, most customers stick to simple dishes – an enormous starter of creamy smoked mackerel pâté, huge rib-eye steaks, “excellent burgers” and posh fish pie. Well-priced set meals, thoughtfully assembled wines and family-focused Sunday roasts amplify Sonny’s neighbourhood appeal.