SINO is the third in a recent wave of Ukrainian restaurant openings in London, joining the likes of Tatar Bunar and Mriya Neo Bistro, all offering distinct interpretations of Ukrainian cuisine. Inhabiting a cosy corner site on a Notting Hill mews, SINO is cosy and artfully arranged, clearly exuding neighbourhood restaurant energy.
The interiors have been thoughtfully curated, with commendable commitment to Ukrainian artisanship. The week we visit, clay light fittings have finally arrived from Ukraine after weeks stuck in transit. The tables are uniquely hand-carved from felled Ukrainian trees, and ceramics come from Ukrainian studio Saga Pottery - even the clay on the walls is Ukrainian. The design palette leans heavily into earthy tones: beige walls, cream boucle banquettes, and off-white linen curtains fluttering gently in the breeze. It may be a little stark and minimalist, but it’s on trend, and in the glow of the evening sun, rather enchanting.
Head chef Eugene Korolev served in the Ukrainian army before relocating to London to open SINO. It may be thousands of miles from the front lines, but his restaurant is deeply, intrinsically rooted in Ukrainian culture. His cooking riffs on classic Ukrainian flavours, elevated by experience in Michelin-starred kitchens. He clearly has an eye for presentation, as emerging dishes are very easy on the eye. Rich, malty rye bread comes partnered with a donut of whipped butter and a pool of malt reduction that turns a humble bread course into something memorable. Then there’s a gorgeous parcel of crayfish, wrapped in cabbage and swaddled in dill-spiked tomato veloute, followed swiftly by pike roe, piled high with sour cream on dinky potato waffles.
Korolev excels at making lesser-known ingredients feel inviting, exemplified by a dish of cherry-glazed barbecue catfish, with a hint of aged funk, offset by a robust sausage and paprika sauce. It’s bold and satisfying, though for the more cautious diner, a pair of mini chicken Kyiv croquettes on a slick of bison grass mash offers something more comforting.
The decision to turn to Ukrainian mixologist Ana Reznik (of A Bar With Shapes For A Name) for the cocktail list is an inspired one too, and a final salvo of honey cake finishes on an equally high note. Service is still finding a rhythm, and the room may feel spartan for some, but SINO clearly has a bright future.