For nearly a decade, The Colony Grill reigned as The Beaumont’s flagship restaurant. But where there was once rich leather and mahogany, Rosi brings a softer energy: a pastel-hued, art-filled reinvention that glows with warmth and understated elegance. At the helm is Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the Michelin-starred chef of Northcote, who brings her signature comfort-led nostalgia to this artsy space.
The decor is undeniably half of the draw: blush-pink banquettes curve around marble-topped tables; gentle edges are offset by brass detailing; and a diffused glow floods the room, with mood lighting set to a low dim. From the moment we step inside, it’s Luke Edward Hall’s dream-like artworks that grab our attention. These murals - all bold brushstrokes and abstract forms - breathe life into the walls, adding a touch of whimsy to the otherwise pristine dining room. Service is professional and astute, as would be expected, with no glass left unfilled, and a sommelier who confidently guides us throughout the evening.
Goodwin-Allen's menu nods to the past, reimagining 80s dinner party nostalgia through a modern lens. We start with hash browns - perfectly cubed and golden, their salty crunch cut through by the sharp kick of a pickled walnut ketchup. Elsewhere, cauliflower cheese bites ooze with molten comfort, dusted with parmesan and dipped into a truffle mayo that delivers on pure indulgence.
Rosi shines brightest in its moments of theatre: an old-fashioned pork pie is ceremoniously wheeled to the table and sliced before our eyes. The pastry is beautifully bronzed, the filling dense and meaty, and layered with jelly, throw in a punchy piccalilli and it’s the picture of nostalgia.
The menu continues with an array of exceptional comfort foods which on their own would probably leave many a punter more than satisfied. A chicken Kyiv is perfectly tender, its delicate golden crumb giving way to an avalanche of truffle-laced garlic butter, whilst a steamed lamb pudding is pure comfort, tender meat and soft veg encased in a suet shell, finished with a meaty jus poured tableside.
Rosi already feels as if it’s lived a thousand lives - it's a timeless space with a menu that's confidently rooted in the classics. Prices match the Mayfair postcode, but if you’re looking for old-school comforts, Rosi more than delivers.