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Taken over by Paul Ainsworth of Michelin-starred No.6 nearby, this well-liked Padstow Italian is now operating with new vigour and a new look – although it hasn’t forsaken its 30-year-old roots as a neighbourhood trattoria. Chef/director Paul Dodd worked with Ainsworth at Pétrus in Marcus Wareing’s day, and he brings plenty of confidence and style to proceedings in the buzzy ground-floor café and upstairs grazing bar. Charcuterie, ‘wicked garlic doughballs’, veggie ‘peasant pots’ and pickled sardines on sourdough toast might precede thin-crust pizzas, calzone and pastas such as penne carbonara with Kernow sausage meatballs or strozzapreti with free-range chicken and red pesto. Also check out Wednesday’s special offers (Porthilly mussels and fries for a tenner, say), and don’t miss the nostalgic sundaes. ‘Bambini’ have their own mini menu and you can also drop by for coffee and cake.
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