“Wonderful fish” is the reason for choosing this bijou restaurant, a beachfront sibling to Riddle & Finns’ South Lanes original. The mood is relaxed, yet there’s an unmistakably glamorous edge to proceedings – although nothing can trump the “great views” (we suggest sitting outside if you can). The day’s ceviche comes dressed with chilli, red onion and lime salsa, oysters appear in lots of different guises alongside ‘tankards of black velvet’, and platters of fruits de mer feature whole crab or lobster. Otherwise, the kitchen sends out everything from sautéed squid with chorizo and chilli to bowls of bouillabaisse, fish pie or pan-fried monkfish with couscous, courgette tagliatelle, chickpeas and tomatoes. Veggies get a few token offerings, although committed carnivores receive short shrift. The short wine list gives plenty of space to Champagnes, while service is “always so helpful” (especially when it comes to off-menu requests). Prices are relatively steep by Brighton standards, but for seafood this fresh you won’t mind shelling out a little extra.
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