Restaurant 22

It’s not every day that a restaurant fills you with an otherworldly sense of joy, but the food that chef-owner Sam Carter is turning out at this understated Cambridge restaurant is nothing short of transcendent. He runs the Michelin-starred spot with his wife Alex in a charming Victorian townhouse just off the busy Chesterton Road. It’s an unassuming location for one of Cambridge’s - nay, the UK’s - finest restaurants, but together the pair have created something truly extraordinary here.

By contrast, first impressions are relatively ordinary. The pared-back dining room is a small, blank canvas space with a red brick fireplace and a handful of well-spaced tables, refusing to draw attention away from anything but the food. And oh, the food!

Carter is clearly a master of his craft, producing tasting menus that are technically precise, impossibly delicious, and filled with joy-giving things. To start, a selection of snacks arrive on miniature plinths: soft Heckfield cheese gougères encased in yielding choux pastry and marvellous little lobster and gochujang tartlets that explode with an electric spiced liquid. Flaky, laminated brioche rolls follow with melting chicken fat butter. Then, smoked eel and pink fir potatoes finished with a lively jalapeno sauce.

Every course is meticulously detailed - both in execution and presentation – and bursting with equal measures of creativity and technical prowess. We marvel at a beautiful piece of Cornish brill stuffed with a delicate mousse using the fillet, then paired with a giant, smoked mussel, charred brassicas, caviar and a vermouth sauce. Peak deliciousness is achieved with a main course of venison loin, paired with splodges of sweet Jerusalem artichoke puree, a cacao-enriched jus, and served with our very own homemade ‘mince pie’, filled with offcuts of venison that have been slow-cooked until rich and tender. Brilliant!

A lot of pressure rides on the sweet course to live up to a masterpiece like this, but the finale is another blinder: caramel flan underscored by warming Pedro Ximenez, rounded out with coffee oil, then topped with aerated Manjari chocolate.

Drinks are in safe hands, too. The team’s resident sommelier has doubled the restaurant's wine list over the last year, and guided us towards some excellent pairings, although every member of staff we encountered was endlessly friendly and knowledgeable.

To conclude, understated though it may be, Restaurant 22 speaks volumes with its breathtaking menus and faultless service. 

Restaurant 22 is located just off the River Cam on Jesus Green, sitting in a pretty Victorian heritage house with stained glass windows and brickwork dating back to 1892. Restaurant 22 is the first restaurant of partners Sam Carter and Alex Olivier and is inspired by many of the Michelin-star restaurants the pair have worked in over the years. 

Carter boasts some serious background in the UK's top-tier restaurants. He spent years working at Hambleton Hall, as well as Maze by Gordon Ramsay. And his own magnum opus draws on that wealth of experience, translated into his own style. Restaurant 22 has a seasonal menu which has been largely inspired by local produce and ingredients. Ever changing to reflect season and supply, you will find a lunch menu, plus a long and short tasting menu.

An example of the type of dishes you may find on the tasting menu includes St. Austell mussels served with celeriac, lovage and brown bread, and Iberico pork served with Jerusalem artichoke, pear and miso. Smaller dishes include Sandringham venison, Wild Cornish sea bass, and Newlyn cod served with parsley. Each dish can be accompanied by paired wines or paired soft drinks. You can also choose to finish your meal with petit fours, plus coffee or tea. The evening service is cosy and intimate, mostly lit by candlelight to enjoy the ambience of the building and its historical features.

Restaurant 22 is centrally located and is within close proximity to a number of local attractions in Cambridge, such as the University, modern art gallery Kettle’s Yard. Restaurant 22 is also a short stroll from the river, perhaps you’ll try your hand at punting or a river cruise