Rake at The Compton Arms

Somewhere between Animal Farm and 1984, George Orwell penned a treatise on ‘the perfect pub’, allegedly praising The Compton Arms’ ‘solid, comfortable ugliness’ and recalling the joys of snack counter liver-sausage sandwiches. The Moon Under Water is a fiction, but fortunately, The Compton Arms isn't. Today, it has become a petri dish for up-and-coming chefs (sans snack counter, naturally).

Going where Four Legs (of The Plimsoll and Tollington’s), and Dara Klein’s Tiella have gone before, Rake is the latest to squeeze into this squat sugar cube of a pub. Helmed by Jay Claus and Syrus Pickhaver (formerly of Brat and Acme Fire Cult) Rake focuses on Cornish seafood, nose-to-tail cuts, and old-world British nostalgia. Dipping past a jostling bar and into a 12-cover back room ‘snug’ with rondel windows and tartan banquettes, The Compton Arms feels a natural location for it.

The menu is so well conceived, it’s near impossible to order from. Eventually, we settle on a plate of a pepper-cured ox tongue. It’s a phenomenal bit of cooking, almost melting, thinly sliced and soaking in a heady beef-powered vinaigrette. Elsewhere, there are rarebit-baked oysters brimming with a prickly cheese sauce, and fat chips to rival even the best roast spuds.

A simple tomato salad arrives generous but considered, offering up juicy tomatoes interspersed with stings of grated horseradish and a dehydrated olive crumb. We match it with a plump and pillowy crumpet, judiciously soaked in hot maple syrup and stacked with a craggy fried jenga of crisp-shelled but succulent ray wing tenders.

A Barnsley chop offers a ridge of crackled fat and blushing pink meat, topped with a coil of julienned carrot in mustard cream. Though attractive, the latter comes dangerously close to overpowering an otherwise delicate lamb jus.

Regardless, it’s the kind of food that has diners stretching across strangers’ tables, gloating about an order of devilled duck hearts on St George’s toast. Now riddled with envy, we’re half-hoping The Compton Arms could keep a kitchen residency captive for once. Whether this was Orwell’s ‘perfect pub’ is up for debate, but there’s no question he’d caution against such totalitarian designs. He’d be right. But until it flies elsewhere, there’s comfort in knowing Rake’s styled-up British cooking is safe under the wing of The Compton Arms.

The Compton Arms in Highbury is known as a launchpad for some of London’s most exciting culinary talent, and seasonal, British concept Rake continues this tradition. Helmed by chefs Jay Claus and Syrus Pickhaver - who collectively boast over 20 years of experience in some of the UK’s most esteemed kitchens, including Quo Vadis, BRAT, and Acme Fire Cult - Rake brings a refined yet heartfelt approach to British cuisine.

Rake’s ethos revolves around simplicity, seasonality, and sustainable practices, with a focus on whole beast butchery and responsibly sourced Cornish seafood. Dishes are both nostalgic and innovative, offering diners the chance to rediscover classics in new, surprising ways.

Highlights include crisp, beer-battered cockles and clams, oysters served baked rarebit style or Kilpatrick with lardo, spiced tomato, and Worcestershire sauce. There’s also hearty offerings like beef ribeye for two, served with homemade onion rings and Rake’s legendary chips. Lighter, seasonal dishes include steamed crab claws paired with laverbread and bacon Béarnaise and salsify served alongside a warming Scotch broth.

On Arsenal match days, Rake rises to the occasion with a gourmet take on the classic hotdog. Their version features a Cumberland sausage in a soft potato roll, served with French dip gravy and English mustard for dipping—indulgent pub food done right.

Rake also serves Sunday roasts. Diners can look forward to roast meats accompanied by Yorkshire puddings, roast potatoes, leek gratin, and collard greens, as well as the unique addition of Cornish Stargazy pies filled with seasonal vegetables.

Desserts are a fitting finale to the meal, offering a lineup of solid British favorites. Options include a rich Treacle tart with clotted cream, a decadent St. Emilion tart, and a selection of cheeses. The deep-fried summer berry pie, made with blackberries foraged from Syrus’ mother’s garden, adds a personal touch to the menu.

Whether for a casual pint, a match-day feast, or a full Sunday spread, Rake at The Compton Arms offers something to suit most tastes in a setting that is so often the springboard to success.